Author Topic: 3D or no?  (Read 2102 times)

Offline grogbro

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3D or no?
« on: January 23, 2014, 03:51:04 PM GMT GMT »
I've been working on 28mm sculpts of my own minis. I am very new to it, but it's a lot of fun. I am a 3D artist and I've seen 3D printing really coming up in the world. I have been staying away from the 3D prints because how would they stand up to the mould process if there is heat involved to make the master moulds? I see a lot of artists making 3d prints for board game pieces etc, but what material do you have to have them produced at (say from Shapeways etc), for them to stand up to the mould process?

My idea was to finish my two minis and send them off to china to get them reproduced, unless I can find someone in the states or someone reasonable outside the states.

Thanks for any info!

Offline grogbro

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Re: 3D or no?
« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2014, 02:59:16 PM GMT GMT »
I spoke to a few people on the shapeways forums and one of them suggested if I wanted to do a 3d sculpt to have shapeways print it out in steel or another metal, but it loses some detail. Not sure if this is how its done to make a master when doing 3d mini sculpts.

I do like holding my minis inhand though. I just cant seem to get the detail I want in them.

Offline Zack Cart

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Re: 3D or no?
« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2014, 03:25:43 PM GMT GMT »
I have heard of people taking 3D prints, sending them to jewelers to have to very finely bronzed/silver-coated, and then being able to use them as a master for production. I couldn't say how much detail you lose to the bronze, but I would imagine it's comparable to a coat of paint. Worth looking into, anyway...

-Zack

Offline Badsmile

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Re: 3D or no?
« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2014, 11:00:01 AM GMT GMT »
As for 28-32 mm miniatures the printing quality shapeways achieves at the moment is absolutely useless imo. There are however lots of companies that print on better machines with the nescessary resolution and detail for miniatures (almost no stepping). The material itself is probably not heat resistant enough to make a mold directly from it, we have not tryed so far as we didn't want to risk it (good prints cost mad monayz). What you do is you take resin copies of the model and can then use the resins for a mold.
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Offline scall

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Re: 3D or no?
« Reply #4 on: February 03, 2014, 02:53:31 PM GMT GMT »

Hi

plenty of 3d printers with very good detail, plus using silicon molds in a vulcaniser and using a low heat, you can get a very good cast out of the printer. You will need to use a perfactory printer or similar (cideas or moddler) to get the detail you want. This also has little cleanup depending on the orientation its printed and the machine. The less cleanup the more it costs.

I'm toying with creating some dollies, heads and weapons in as small as 15mm to use! Ive happily created 15mm vehicles in resin and metal , I created in 3d

thanks

scall

Offline PBartholdy

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Re: 3D or no?
« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2014, 09:00:10 AM GMT GMT »
Hi scall,

I've taken a look at Moddler and the detail they can produce looks pretty good.
Do you have any idea of what it costs? I haven't contacted them for a quote, as I haven't got any 3D files yet. I want to know if it is viable with my funding means, to start toying with 3D.
Visit my website at www.demiurgeminis.com/

Offline redfeathercasting

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Re: 3D or no?
« Reply #6 on: March 13, 2014, 12:26:47 AM GMT GMT »
Badsmile, a few folks I've spoke too recommended using the low temp vulcanising discs, and you can create a master mould straight from a 3D print - the low temp cure discs can be vulcanised at as low as 90'c c if you leave it long enough in the press - I've ordered a pair with my next lot of organic rubber discs in order to give it a shot - apparently you need to make sure you get your master printed in the right materal from the right kind of printer - [I've forgot which I'd need to give him a ring but its late, pretty sure what Scall said above] - but it does not need to be metal or even metal plated - just go straight from the 3D print and it wont destroy it!
  If I get a chance to try it myself I can always post the results here. I have some resin-printed wheels I really want to do in metal for my own use.

Oh and getting a jewellery caster to do you a master in brass etc is quite effective if your 3D print is in wax - I got a small jewellery piece done this way from a contact of mine.
« Last Edit: March 13, 2014, 12:32:37 AM GMT GMT by redfeathercasting »

Offline Thantos

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Re: 3D or no?
« Reply #7 on: March 22, 2014, 12:52:25 PM GMT GMT »
Yea been casting from 3D prints for years now, works fine. A few things you need to bear in mind and some tricks as opposed to casting from a epoxy master, but nothing that cant be overcome :)
If you want high res printing (z16um), drop us a line :)

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Offline scall

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Re: 3D or no?
« Reply #8 on: March 22, 2014, 05:01:09 PM GMT GMT »


Hi

sorry, I dont have a price. I actually use cideas, they are also very very good. A little bit of extra cleanup is needed, however cheaper. Drop him an email and explain what you are doing and the size. He is a really good guy and will help you out. I can send you his email if you need

Krith